Frequently asked questions

Wheelerworks is the online specialist in parts and accessories for scooters, mopeds and bicycles. With us you'll find both genuine parts and good aftermarket: from wear parts such as drive belts, spark plugs and brake pads to specific model parts. We deliver throughout the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany and the rest of the EU. You'll find the right part via the search bar, the categories, the 'Suitable for' selection or our technical drawings.

Our warehouse is in Sprang-Capelle (Van der Duinstraat 128, 5161 BS), but that is not a visiting address: our physical shop and workshop are closed. Collection or dropping by is therefore not possible — we sell and ship online only. Your order comes to you with track & trace.

Wheelerworks began as a hobby that got out of hand in a shed and grew into a real parts specialist. We have stopped selling new scooters and bicycles and now focus entirely on parts. Behind the scenes is a small team with years of workshop and mechanic experience – not an anonymous call centre. We put that knowledge mainly into the site itself: clear product pages, 'Suitable for' filters and technical drawings, so you can quickly find the right part yourself.

Yes, besides scooter and moped parts we also stock bicycle parts. Our range includes over 100.000 items, genuine and aftermarket – from wear parts to more specific model parts. The most requested parts are in stock; less common parts we order in for you, with the expected delivery time on the product page. Browse the categories or use the search bar to see what's available for your vehicle.

Because you can quickly find the right part yourself and order it straight away. Via the search bar, the filters, the 'Suitable for' selection or the technical drawings, you choose exactly what fits your scooter — genuine or a cheaper aftermarket alternative, side by side. On every product page you can see when the item will be shipped. And if a part doesn't fit after all, you simply return it within 28 days.

Several routes lead to the right part — choose whichever suits you best:

• Search bar (at the top) — type the part together with your brand or model, for example 'drive belt Piaggio Zip', or search directly by type or item number.
• Categories + filters — browse a category and filter by brand, model, size and more.
• 'Suitable for' — choose your brand and model, and you'll only see parts that fit your vehicle.
• Technical drawings (exploded views) — see on the drawing of your model exactly where a part sits and click through to the right item.

Often the search bar is the quickest; for 'what exactly is in here?' the technical drawings are ideal.

The search bar at the top is often the quickest route. Two handy ways:

• Search for the part + your vehicle, for example 'brake pads Vespa Primavera' or 'air filter Tomos'.
• Search by the code that is already on your old part. Many parts carry their own type. On a spark plug, for example, there is a code on the side (such as NGK BR8ES or BPR7HS) — you simply type it in and you immediately see the right one. That also works for tyres (the size code on the sidewall), bulbs and bearings.

This way you don't need to know first which category something falls into.

The most reliable checks you can do yourself in just a few clicks:

• Choose your vehicle via 'Suitable for' (brand and model) — then you filter the catalogue to what fits.
• Or view the technical drawing of your model: there you can see the part in its place, with the right item linked to it. Handy to be sure you pick the right variant.

If in doubt, keep your make, model, year of manufacture, and possibly your frame number or license plate number at hand — with these, you will almost always be able to find it using the filters.

Genuine parts come from the manufacturer of your scooter or moped (OEM). Aftermarket parts are made by another, often specialised brand and are usually cheaper, while the quality can be excellent. For many parts you'll find both, so you can choose for yourself: genuine for certainty of fit, or aftermarket to save money. On the product page you can see the brand and the specifications, so you can make an informed choice.

First try a different route: search by a type or item number instead of a description, choose your vehicle via 'Suitable for', or look up your part using the technical drawing of your model – sometimes a variant is listed there that you wouldn't quickly find with a search term. Still no luck? Even less common parts are often something we can still arrange. Send us your brand, type and year of manufacture and we'll look into it for you.

Yes, for common brands such as Piaggio and Vespa we have a wide range, genuine and aftermarket. The quickest way to see what fits is to choose your model via 'Suitable for' or to search the search bar for the part + your model (for example 'variator roller weights Piaggio Zip'). For many models there's also a technical drawing available, showing the part in its position.

Certainly. We stock parts for many brands of mopeds and scooters, including Tomos, Kymco and Peugeot. Choose your brand and model via 'Suitable for', use the search bar, or view the technical drawings of your model. That way you quickly find the right part without guessing at the fit.

To get the right parts, it helps to know your vehicle exactly. The frame number (VIN) is stamped into the frame – often near the head tube (under the handlebar), under the seat or near the engine block – and is on your registration certificate. The engine capacity (for example 50cc or 125cc) and the year of manufacture are also on the registration certificate or the type plate. With brand, model, year of manufacture and cc you can quickly find the parts that really fit via 'Suitable for' and the technical drawings.

Certainly. Many Chinese scooters share the same engine block — the well-known GY6 (139QMB for 50cc, 152QMI/157QMJ for 125/150cc) — so many wear and drivetrain parts are interchangeable, regardless of the brand on the fairing. Think drive belt, variator roller weights, brake pads, spark plug and air filter. Please note: fairing, bodywork and model-specific parts are not — choose those by your exact brand/model. Search by your model via 'Suitable for', or type 'GY6 drive belt' or your part + 'GY6' in the search bar.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: China scooter (GY6) parts.

Yes, we also stock parts for classic mopeds and restoration projects — Puch, Zündapp, Kreidler and more. Choose your brand and model via 'Suitable for', or take a look at the technical drawings for your model: with a restoration it's especially handy to see on the drawing which part goes where. If a specific part isn't listed, we can often still look into it for you.

A technical drawing — also called an exploded view or parts diagram — is the exploded drawing of a part or assembly of your scooter, on which every individual part is numbered. That way you can see at a glance how, for example, a variator, brake caliper or cylinder is built up and which part goes where. Each number on the drawing has a matching item in our webshop, which you can put straight into your cart. Ideal if you know what is broken, but not exactly what the part is called.

Go to technical drawings and click through: brand → model → version → drawing. The drawing shows numbered parts; click a number (or the matching line in the list next to it) and you jump straight to the right item, with price and stock. If you're not sure which part you need, this is often the clearest way — you simply recognise it by its position on the drawing.

We're constantly expanding the drawings. For many common brands — think Piaggio, Vespa, Peugeot, Tomos, Kymco, Puch, Zündapp, Kreidler and various Chinese scooters (GY6) — exploded views are available, with the individual models and versions inside. Have a look on the drawings page to see whether your model is there. If not, you can simply find the part via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Each number (the 'position') corresponds to one part on the drawing. You will find that same number in the parts list next to the drawing, along with the name, price, and stock of the corresponding item. A single position can sometimes have multiple versions (for example, different sizes or years of manufacture); these are then listed neatly below each other so that you choose the correct variant.

Variator roller weights partly determine when your variator 'shifts up', and you control that with their weight (in grams):

• Heavier roller weights — they shift up earlier: calmer, slightly higher top speed, lower revs.
• Lighter roller weights — let the engine rev higher: sharper acceleration, sometimes a slightly lower top speed.

Start with the standard weight of your model (it is matched to your engine) and deviate from it by at most a few grams to 'tune'. You'll find the right variator roller weight sets and individual variator parts via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Choosing variator roller weights.

A drive belt has a fixed size (length × width), which is usually printed on the belt itself. Copy that code, or choose your model via 'Suitable for' — then you'll see the matching one straight away. A stretched or frayed belt is best replaced together with the variator roller weights, because they wear as a set. You'll find all drive belts together here.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Replacing the drive belt: when and which size?.

A cylinder kit is a set with cylinder + piston; with a bore-up you increase the engine capacity (for example 50 → 70cc) for more power. For a good result, you match everything to each other: cylinder, exhaust, carburettor, ignition and variator. To be honest: riding a tuned vehicle on public roads is not allowed — on private land or at a circuit, of course, it is. Browse the cylinders, performance exhausts and the full tuning range; choose your model via 'Suitable for' to see what fits.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Tuning your scooter: more power.

This is about the brake lining material:

• Organic — softer, quieter and gentle on the disc; fine for normal use, but less heat-resistant under heavy/sporty braking.
• Sintered (metal) — heat-resistant, strong bite and long life; ideal for sporty or heavily loaded use, but can be a little noisier.

For most scooters organic is perfectly adequate. Choose the right brake pads (and, if necessary, brake discs) via 'Suitable for' or your model name.

Preferably combine several locks — thieves avoid hassle:

• Disc lock — compact, blocks the wheel; don't forget to take it off before riding away.
• D-lock or chain lock — attach it to a fixed point, so that it can't be lifted off.
• ART approval mark — often required by your insurer; keep it in mind when buying.

View all locks & security and filter on your vehicle on the left.

You look up your part — via the search bar, the category filters, 'Suitable for' or a technical drawing — put it in your cart and check out online. Everything is shipped; visiting a shop or collecting in person is not possible. You can see on the product page when your item will be shipped; most orders leave within 1 to 2 working days.

Absolutely. Our webshop is open to everyone, and everyone gets volume discount on larger quantities. For workshops we also have a business account with extra discount and a VAT invoice in your company name. Send us your company details and we'll set it up for you.

Absolutely. If you really can't work it out with the search bar, the filters, 'Suitable for' or the technical drawings, or you're unsure whether a specific part will fit, we're happy to help — we're mechanics ourselves. Send us your brand, type, year of manufacture and, if you have it, your frame number or registration number via the contact page, and we'll help you find the right part. Fitting is up to you, of course.

After dispatch, your parcel is usually with you within 1 working day in the Netherlands. Processing time is added to that; it varies per item and is shown on the product page. Most orders are shipped within 1 to 2 working days. Your parcel is sent with track & trace and you receive the tracking number by email.

Delivery time after dispatch varies by country: to Belgium usually 1 working day, to Germany 2 working days and to the other EU countries 2-7 working days. On top of that comes the handling time, which varies per item and is shown on the product page. Orders abroad also ship with track & trace. We deliver throughout the EU; the delivery time per country is shown on the shipping page.

Shipping costs depend on the country and your order, and you see them in the last step before you pay. To the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany we ship free from €75. For the other EU countries you pay the shipping costs shown at checkout. More about this is on the shipping page.

That differs per item. For many items the product page states that if ordered before 12:00 they are shipped the same working day; what applies to your item you can see on the product page itself. Most orders leave within 1 to 2 working days.

Every order leaves with track & trace. As soon as your parcel is on its way, you'll receive the tracking number by email so you can follow the shipment. Don't see anything after a few days? Also check your spam folder.

No, we ship only within the European Union. That means you never have to deal with import duties, customs charges or clearance: within the EU there is free movement of goods and VAT is already included in the price. We do not offer delivery outside the EU. We also do not deliver to the Canary Islands or other EU areas outside the EU VAT area (such as Ceuta, Melilla, Åland and the French overseas territories).

Annoying. Report it preferably within 2 working days of receipt and include photos of the damage, and we'll sort it out together. Our contact details are on the contact page.

You can pay securely with iDEAL | Wero, debit or credit card (Visa, Mastercard, American Express, also via Google Pay), PayPal, Apple Pay, Bancontact, KBC/CBC, Belfius, eps or a bank transfer. You can pay later or in instalments with Klarna and in3 (in 3 instalments, 0% interest). Which options you see depends on your country and order amount. The full overview is on the payment page.

Yes. Your payment is encrypted via our payment partner Mollie, and we never store your card or bank details ourselves. You pay in the secure environment of the method you choose, such as your own banking app with iDEAL. More explanation is on the payment page.

Yes. With Klarna you pay afterwards or spread the amount over 3 instalments; with in3 you pay in 3 instalments with 0% interest. You simply choose the option at checkout.

No, at Wheelerworks you pay no extra costs for Klarna or in3 — you pay the amount of your order. Klarna's and in3's own terms do apply (for example for late payment); you will see them during checkout before you confirm.

Absolutely. We deliver throughout the EU and at checkout you see the methods available in your country — think iDEAL (NL), Bancontact, KBC/CBC and Belfius (BE), eps (AT), plus PayPal and credit card. Klarna is available in most euro countries, in3 only in the Netherlands. At checkout you see what is available for your country.

As soon as your payment is received, we prepare your order; the processing time differs per item and is stated on the product page. Most orders leave within 1 to 2 working days. You will receive a tracking number by email as soon as your parcel is on its way.

You have 28 days to return your order. If a part doesn't fit, it can simply go back. You register the return yourself via register return and then send the part back to us.

You register a return yourself via register a return. If you're logged in, choose the right order from your overview; as a guest, enter your order number and email address. Tick the parts you're sending back, choose a reason and add a comment if you like. You'll receive a confirmation by email and we'll contact you about the handling.

If you send something back because it doesn't fit or because you've changed your mind, the return costs are at your own expense and you choose the carrier yourself (send it with track & trace, so you have proof of postage). If we made a mistake — supplied the wrong or a damaged part — we pay for the return shipment. Please report this within 2 working days if possible, with photos, via the contact page.

If what was delivered doesn't match your order, let us know via the contact page and we'll sort it out straight away (that's our mistake). If the part doesn't fit your vehicle, you can return it within 28 days via register a return. You can avoid a miss next time with the 'Suitable for' selection or the technical drawing of your model.

Exchanging works in two steps: you register the part to be returned via register a return and you order the part you want again on the site. That way you get the right item in the quickest way. Not sure which size or variant you need? Check it via 'Suitable for' or the technical drawing of your model.

Please send the part back complete, unused and in good condition, in the original packaging if possible, so that we can sell it again. Pack it securely so it isn't damaged in transit. Register the return first via register a return.

In short: a 2-stroke runs on 2T oil that burns along with the fuel — either as premix (oil in the petrol), or automatically via a small oil pump from a separate tank, depending on your model. A 4-stroke has engine oil in the crankcase that you change periodically, just like in a car.

You'll find the right 2T oil, engine oil or a new oil filter via 'Suitable for' or the search bar. For the type and quantity, follow the manual for your model.

Straight to engine oil and oil filters.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Which oil does my scooter need?.

The spark plug is a genuine wear part. Hard starting, an uneven idle, loss of power or higher consumption often point to a worn or fouled spark plug — and it's one of the cheapest parts to replace. Good to know: the colour of the spark plug tip tells you a lot — light brown is healthy, black and sooty indicates running too rich, chalky white too lean.

Which spark plug fits depends on brand, model and engine. Quickest: enter the code printed on your current spark plug (such as NGK BR8ES) in the search bar, or select your vehicle via 'Suitable for'.

You'll find all spark plugs together here — filter on the left by your vehicle.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Which spark plug does my scooter need?.

Drive belt and variator roller weights are wear parts of the variator and part of the normal maintenance of an automatic scooter. A stretched or frayed belt and flattened rollers show up as less smooth acceleration, a lower top speed or an unsettled transmission. Preferably replace them as a set, since they wear together. The exact intervals differ per model — check the workshop manual for that. You'll find the right set via 'Suitable for', the search bar or the technical drawing of your model.

Go straight to the drive belts and variator roller weight sets, filter by your vehicle.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Replacing the drive belt: when and which size?.

Brake pads are safety wear parts, so don't let them go too far. Watch for a longer braking distance, squeaking or scraping, a spongy brake feel or visibly thin brake lining. If in doubt, replacing is the safe choice; check the disc or drum straight away too. The right brake pads or brake shoes depend on brand, model and brake type (disc or drum) – choose your vehicle via 'Suitable for' or take a look at the technical drawing of the brake system.

Go straight to the brake pads and brake discs — filter by your vehicle on the left.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Replacing scooter brake pads.

The tyre size is shown as a code on the side of your current tyre (for example 120/70-12); you simply type that into the search bar. The tyre pressure can be found in the owner's manual or on a sticker on the frame, and can differ front and rear. We deliberately don't state a fixed pressure here, because it depends on the model. Good to know: the tyre also carries a DOT code with the production week and year — rubber ages, so a tyre that has been in storage for years can harden, even with plenty of tread.

Go straight to the tyres — filter on the left for your vehicle.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Choosing a scooter tyre: reading the tyre size.

The exact interval is given in the workshop manual or owner's manual for your model — that one takes precedence. As a guideline:

• 4-stroke: change the engine oil periodically and replace the oil filter at the same time. How often varies greatly per scooter, so check your manual; if in doubt, message us your brand, type and year of manufacture.
• 2-stroke: the engine oil burns along with the fuel, so you don't need to change it — but do top up the 2T oil tank and change the transmission/crankcase oil periodically.
• Wear parts: keep an eye on the drive belt and variator roller weights, spark plug, air filter and brake pads, and replace them in time.

You'll find the right oil, filters and wear parts for your model via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Handy: many brands have a ready-made maintenance kit with the wear parts in one package.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Changing the oil on your 4-stroke scooter and Scooter maintenance: what and when.

A dirty air filter lets less air through, making the mixture too rich: less power, higher consumption and sometimes black smoke. Check it at every service. A foam filter can be washed out and lightly re-oiled with filter oil; a paper filter you replace. If you ride through a lot of dust or sand, do it more often. You'll find the right air filter via 'Suitable for', the search bar or the technical drawing of your model.

Time for a replacement? All air filters are together here.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Cleaning the air filter and carburettor.

Only for hydraulic disc brakes: they work with brake fluid (often DOT 4). Brake fluid attracts moisture, which lowers the boiling point and can make the brake feel 'spongy' – so change it periodically (a common guideline is every ~2 years). Drum brakes and mechanical brakes work with a cable and have no brake fluid. You'll find the right brake fluid, brake pads or brake cables via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Go straight to the brake fluid.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Bleeding the brakes and changing the fluid.

A few steps and you'll be riding again in spring in no time:

• Fuel — full tank with a dash of fuel stabiliser (to prevent gumming), or let the carburettor run dry.
• Accu — either on a trickle charger or off it, stored fully charged and frost-free. A flat battery can freeze.
• Oil — with a 4-stroke, put in fresh engine oil just before winter lay-up.
• Tyres & storage — keep tyre pressure at the correct level, store dry and frost-free, and cover against dust and moisture.

Stabiliser, fresh oil, a battery charger or a new battery you'll find via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Handy for winter storage: maintenance products (stabiliser), fresh engine oil and a trickle charger.

Scooters have a number of parts that simply need to be replaced periodically. The most requested, with a direct link (filter links by your vehicle):

• Drive belts and variator roller weights (the variator) — for smooth acceleration and your top speed.
• spark plugs — cheap and decisive for a smooth start.
• brake pads — safety wear part.
• air filters — for the right air-fuel mix.
• tyres — for tread and age.
• batteries and lighting — for the electrics.

Or get a ready-made maintenance kit in one go.

A bolt left too loose causes vibration and works loose; too tight strips it or damages the thread. The guide values below apply to standard steel bolts (strength class 8.8), clean and lightly oiled. Flange bolts and nuts have a wider bearing surface and can generally be tightened slightly more:

Note: these are general guide values. For critical bolts — cylinder head, wheel axle, brake caliper, flywheel, variator or clutch nut — always use the specific value from the workshop manual for your model (often with a fixed tightening sequence and a torque wrench). Oiled or greasy thread? Then go roughly 10-15% lower.

A basic service you can easily do yourself, step by step:

• Spark plug — check or replace (check the colour of the tip).
• Air filter — clean or replace.
• Oil — on a 4-stroke engine, change the engine oil + oil filter; on a 2-stroke, the crankcase/transmission oil.
• Drive belt and variator roller weights — check for wear.
• Brakes — check brake pads/brake shoes and (for disc brakes) brake fluid.
• Tyres — tread, age and pressure.
• Bolts — check critical fixings are tightened to the correct torque.

Saves searching: many brands have a ready-made maintenance kit with the wear parts in one package. You'll find individual parts via 'Suitable for', the search bar or the technical drawings.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Doing a service yourself: step-by-step plan.

Yes, a 4-stroke has valve clearance that changes over time; a 2-stroke has no valves. Signs of wrong clearance: a ticking noise at the top of the engine (too much clearance) or hard starting and loss of power (too little clearance). The right clearance and the interval are in the workshop manual for your model — measure cold, with a feeler gauge, and adjust with the adjusting screw or a valve shim. If in doubt, have it measured: too little clearance will eventually cost you a valve. You can find valve cover gaskets and shims via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Adjusting the valves on a 4T scooter.

A gentle start-up after months of standing idle prevents damage:

• Fuel — old petrol often 'gums up'; refill the tank with fresh fuel and check that the carburettor isn't blocked.
• Accu — charge or replace; after winter it is often flat.
• Tyres & oil level — set tyre pressure correctly, check oil level (4-stroke).
• Brakes — test that they grip properly before you ride off.
• Cold start — use the choke and let it warm up gently.

Need fresh engine oil, a battery charger or a new battery, or maintenance products? You'll find them via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Calmly check the most common causes:

• Fuel — is there enough in the tank, and is the fuel tap open?
• Emergency stop & ignition — is the kill switch set correctly and the ignition on?
• Safety switches — many scooters will only start with the stand up and the brake lever pulled in.
• Accu — with an electric start: does the starter motor turn over freely? If not, the battery is often flat. With a kickstart you can usually still start it.
• Spark plug — is it still sparking, or is it wet/flooded or worn?
• Fuse — a blown fuse shuts down the entire electrical system.

After standing for a long time, gummed-up petrol in the carburettor is a common culprit. You'll find a new spark plug, fuse or battery via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Need a quick replacement? spark plugs, fuses and batteries.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Scooter won't start? How to fix it yourself.

When acceleration is poor or top speed is too low, the drive and wear parts are the first suspects: a stretched or worn drive belt, worn-in variator roller weights, a worn clutch, or on the engine side a fouled spark plug, dirty air filter or blocked exhaust. Often it is a combination of normal wear.

If you want to see how the variator is built up and which part you need, view the technical drawing of your model. Drive belt, variator roller weights and clutch parts can also be found via 'Suitable for'.

Go straight to variator roller weights and variator parts.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Inspecting the variator and clutch.

The colour is a handy diagnostic:

• Blue/grey smoke = oil is being burnt. On a 2-stroke a little is normal; on a 4-stroke, or if there is an excessive amount, it points to wear (piston rings, valve guides) or too much oil.
• White smoke = usually water vapour/condensation on a cold start, which disappears once the engine is warm. If it stays white and smells sweet on a liquid-cooled engine, coolant may be burning.
• Black smoke = mixture too rich: think of a dirty air filter, a sticking choke or a badly adjusted carburettor.

You'll find parts to fix it — air filter, spark plug, gaskets, piston kit — via 'Suitable for' or the technical drawing of your engine block.

For an overhaul: piston rings and cylinders.

Often, yes. Petrol that sits for a long time (especially with ethanol in E10) gums up and clogs the small jets in the carburettor. Typical signs: hard starting, not wanting to idle, throttle response that hesitates or bogging down when accelerating. Cleaning or overhauling a carburettor with an overhaul kit (jets, needle, gaskets, float needle) usually solves this. You can find those kits and individual parts via 'Suitable for', the search bar or the technical drawing of the carburettor. Prevent it? Store the scooter with a full tank + fuel stabiliser, or let the carburettor run dry.

Go straight to carburettor parts and gasket sets.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Adjusting the carburettor (scooter and moped).

That depends on the damage. Most scooter tyres are tubeless (no inner tube); a small hole in the tread can often be sealed with a repair plug. If the damage is in the sidewall, the tyre is worn or old, or keeps going flat, replacing it is safer. Mopeds with spoked wheels often still have an inner tube, which you then patch or replace. You'll find the right tyre (check the size code on the side, for example 120/70-12), inner tube or a repair kit via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Need a new tyre? Take a look at the tyres and inner tubes.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Choosing a scooter tyre: reading the tyre size.

It's usually the fuel or the ignition. Check:

• Fuel supply — a clogged fuel filter, a pinched or porous fuel hose, or a blocked tank vent will make the engine 'starve'.
• Ignition — a failing spark plug, coil or CDI is exactly what causes cut-outs under load.
• Overheating — on a liquid-cooled engine, too little coolant can make it cut out.

Quick to replace: fuel filters, fuel hoses, spark plugs, coils and CDIs.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Ignition: no spark?.

Work from simple to complex:

• Bulb — has the bulb/LED blown? Often the cause.
• Fuse — a blown fuse shuts down a whole circuit.
• Contact & earth — a loose connector or a poor earth connection causes flickering or dead lights.

Go straight to bulbs, headlights, indicators, fuses or the whole lighting category — filter on your vehicle on the left.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Scooter lighting: replacing a bulb.

Depends on the cooling type:

• Liquid-cooled — check the coolant level and look for leaks; a faulty water pump, thermostat or cooling fan can also be the cause.
• Air-cooled — keep the cooling fins and the fan cover clean, and make sure you use the correct (2T) oil and tuning; running too lean makes it run hot.

Don't keep riding when it overheats — that will cost you an engine. You'll find coolant and radiators via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Three main suspects:

• The battery itself — an old or sulphated battery no longer holds a charge.
• The charging system — does the dynamo/stator still charge the battery via the voltage regulator (rectifier)? A faulty regulator causes a battery that drains or is overcharged.
• Parasitic drain — an alarm or wrongly connected accessory drains it overnight.

Measure the battery voltage with the engine off and running. Go straight to batteries, voltage regulators and battery chargers.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Replacing and choosing a scooter battery.

First find where it comes from:

• Oil — often a worn gasket or oil seal (crankcase, head, clutch cover).
• Petrol — usually a porous fuel hose, a leaking fuel tap or an overflowing carburettor (float needle).

A petrol leak is a fire hazard — don't ride with it until it has been fixed. You'll find gasket sets, fuel hoses and carburettor parts via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Most scooters have a 12V battery (often maintenance-free, AGM). A few tips to keep it going well for years:

• Don't leave it flat. A battery slowly discharges itself, especially if the scooter is standing unused over winter. A flat lead-acid battery 'sulphates' and is ruined.
• Use a trickle charger in winter (maintenance charger) or top up the battery monthly. A full battery doesn't freeze; a flat one does.
• Short rides don't really recharge it. Starting, lighting and indicators actually demand current — ride a bit longer now and then or top up with a charger.
• Store it full and frost-free during long periods of storage; if necessary, disconnect the negative terminal.

A maintenance-free (AGM/gel) battery does not need topping up; with a conventional wet battery you check the fluid level and only top up with distilled water.

A trickle charger (maintenance charger) keeps your battery topped up in winter.

Rule of thumb for a 12V lead-acid battery (wet or AGM): charge at roughly 1/10 of the capacity. So a battery of 5 Ah is charged at about 0,5 A. Preferably use a modern (smart) charger that switches off by itself and is suitable for AGM/gel – a heavy fast charger or car battery charger is too coarse for a small scooter battery. A lithium battery (electric scooter) should only be charged with a charger intended specifically for lithium.

When replacing, watch out for four things: the voltage (usually 12V, sometimes 6V on older mopeds), the capacity (Ah), the plus/minus position of the terminals and the dimensions. The easiest way: type the type code of your current battery (for example YTX4L-BS or YTX7A-BS) into the search bar, or choose your vehicle via 'Suitable for'. Note: some new batteries are supplied dry with an acid pack – you fill and charge those first before fitting.

Want to shop right away? View all batteries and filter on the left by your brand and model.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Replacing and choosing a scooter battery.

We recommend E5 as standard (for example Euro 98/Super Plus), unless your scooter's manufacturer explicitly recommends E10. Euro 95 at the pump is nowadays E10 (up to 10% ethanol); the more expensive 98 is usually E5 (up to 5%). Newer injection models can generally run fine on E10 technically, but ethanol attracts moisture and can attack older fuel hoses, rubbers and gaskets — and is less suitable for 2-stroke premix lubrication. That's why we prefer E5, especially for older, classic and 2-stroke scooters and for a scooter that often stands idle. You can find fuel hoses, gaskets or a carburettor overhaul kit via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

If your 2-stroke has a separate oil pump with oil tank, you don't need to mix – just top up the 2T oil tank. If you do have to mix yourself (premix), then 1:50 (2%) is a common ratio for modern 2T oil; some older or harder-worked engines want 1:40 or 1:25. The figure in your owner's manual is what counts – too little oil causes wear, too much causes smoke and deposits. You'll find good 2T oil via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Petrol has a limited shelf life: usually around 3-6 months in a properly sealed jerry can, and often less in the tank of a scooter that isn't being used. Ethanol (in E10) attracts moisture and the light, flammable components evaporate, so the petrol 'gums up' and blocks the carburettor – the reason a scooter starts badly after winter. If you're putting it away for longer: fill the tank (less condensation), add a fuel stabiliser, or let the carburettor run dry. If you're unsure about old petrol, refill with fresh.

That code is the viscosity (how 'thick' the oil is) according to the SAE standard. With 10W-40:

• 10W — the cold rating (the 'W' for winter): the lower it is, the better the oil flows when cold.
• 40 — the thickness at operating temperature: the higher, the 'thicker' the warm oil.

Many scooters run on a 10W-40 or 5W-40. Stick to the viscosity and the specification the manufacturer prescribes (for example a JASO rating for 4-stroke) — it's in your owner's manual. You'll find the right engine oil via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Which oil does my scooter need?.

A 2-stroke delivers a power stroke every revolution: light, lively and recognisable by its higher, 'buzzy' sound and sometimes a hint of blue smoke (the 2T oil burns along with the fuel). A 4-stroke takes two revolutions, runs smoother and more economically, and has separate engine oil that you change. Rule of thumb among mechanics: a 2-stroke has fewer parts and is easy to maintain, a 4-stroke is cleaner and more economical. Which one you have determines which oil and which parts you need.

On a cold start, the mixture is richer (the choke/enricher adds extra fuel) and the oil is still cold and viscous. Letting it warm up gently for a moment and not giving full throttle for the first few minutes gives the lubrication, piston, and cylinder time to reach operating temperature and alignment. That reduces wear—especially on a 2-stroke. Full throttle on an ice-cold engine is the fastest way to unnecessary wear.

Most automatic scooters have a variator — a continuously variable automatic transmission (CVT). Instead of fixed gears, there are two pulleys with a drive belt between them. At higher revs the variator roller weights push the front pulley closed, so the belt runs outwards and the ratio changes continuously — which keeps the engine at a fairly constant rpm while you accelerate. That is exactly why the drive belt and variator roller weights have such an effect on your acceleration and top speed, and why they are part of normal maintenance. If you want to see how it all fits together, look at the technical drawing of the variator.

In short, the difference lies in the permitted speed and the number plate. A light moped/light scooter may do 25 km/h and has a blue number plate; a moped/moped scooter may do 45 km/h and has a yellow plate. Technically the difference lies mainly in the restriction and setup (for example variator roller weights and drivetrain). The legal requirements regarding driving licence and helmet can change — check the official source (Rijksoverheid/RDW). You'll find parts for your model via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

The code on an NGK spark plug describes the plug precisely. Roughly, using BR8ES:

Important: above all the heat range must be right — a spark plug that is too 'hot' or too 'cold' causes problems. So copy the code of your current spark plug, or choose your vehicle via 'Suitable for'. You'll find all spark plugs together here.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Which spark plug does my scooter need?.

It comes down to the cylinder material, with consequences for behaviour and maintenance:

• Cast iron — solid and forgiving, somewhat heavier, and holds heat for a long time. Many standard and classic blocks are cast iron.
• Aluminium (with a Nikasil or similar coating in the bore) — lighter, cools better and often allows more power; you see it a lot on sport/racing cylinders.

Good to know: an aluminium cylinder expands more when heated, so warming up properly before you open the throttle fully is extra important here — full throttle from cold causes faster wear or seizing, especially with aluminium. Cylinders, pistons and gaskets can be found via 'Suitable for'.

The difference lies in how the engine gets rid of its heat:

• Air-cooled — cools via cooling fins and airflow from riding (sometimes a fan). Simple and low-maintenance: no coolant, no radiator.
• Liquid-cooled (water-cooled) — cools with coolant through a radiator, just like a car. Keeps the temperature more stable (nice under higher loads or sporty riding), but does need maintenance: keep the coolant topped up and replace it periodically.

If you have a liquid-cooled engine, you'll find coolant, radiators and hoses via 'Suitable for' or the search bar. If you see persistent white, sweet-smelling smoke, check whether coolant is being burnt.

Yes, we stock plenty of tuning and performance parts — think performance cylinders, performance exhausts, variator roller weights and modified drivetrain parts. To be honest: tuning/derestricting for use on public roads is not permitted (your scooter must comply with its speed class and type approval). On private land, at a circuit or for restoration and racing you can of course go all out; for some products the application is stated explicitly. Choose your model via 'Suitable for' so you see suitable performance and tuning parts.

Want to know more? Read our detailed advice: Tuning your scooter: more power.

That's possible, but you arrange it with the official authorities — not with us. For a moped or scooter imported from abroad you apply in the Netherlands for a registration number at the RDW (often with an inspection or identification); for export you deregister the vehicle via the RDW. We help you with the parts that go with such a project — lighting, mirrors, cables or overhaul parts. Search by your brand and model via 'Suitable for' or the search bar. The current registration and inspection rules can be found at the RDW.

Two things that are often mixed up:

• MOT — in the Netherlands, mopeds and light mopeds have no periodic MOT requirement. Good maintenance of course remains your own responsibility for safety.
• Insurance — third-party liability insurance is compulsory as soon as your vehicle has a registration plate, even when it is parked. Riding without it is a criminal offence.

You can find the current regulations (registration, driving license, helmet) at the Dutch Government/RDW. We provide the parts to keep your scooter safe and in good condition.

The fastest way is via WhatsApp (+31 6 2955 8532) or by email at [email protected]. Include your order number and we can look straight away. We don't have a telephone helpdesk: a message with a photo or order number helps us faster than a call.

On working days we usually reply the same or the next working day. At weekends it may take a little longer.

Co-funding is not required. Wheelerworks This is a webshop without a physical address or pick-up counter; everything is shipped. Prefer not to wait at home? At checkout, you can usually choose a nearby pick-up point.

Your confirmation email states the expected shipping date. In My account you can see the current status: In preparation means we are gathering and packing your order; as soon as your parcel is on its way, you'll receive an email with the track & trace.