Frequently asked questions

Wheelerworks is the online specialist in parts and accessories for scooters, mopeds, and bicycles. You will find both original parts and high-quality aftermarket components with us: from wear parts such as V-belts, spark plugs, and brake pads to model-specific parts. From our warehouse in Sprang-Capelle, we deliver throughout the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, and the rest of the EU. You can find the right part via the search bar, the categories, the 'Suitable for' selection, or our technical drawings.

Our warehouse is located in Sprang-Capelle (Van der Duinstraat 128, 5161 BS), but this is not a visiting address : our physical store and workshop are closed. Therefore, collection or visiting is not possible — we sell and ship exclusively online. Your order will be sent to you by post with track & trace.

Wheelerworks It started as a hobby that got out of hand in a shed and grew into a true parts specialist. We have stopped selling new scooters and bicycles and now focus entirely on parts. Behind the scenes is a small team with years of workshop and mechanical experience — no anonymous call center. We put that knowledge primarily into the site itself: clear product pages, 'Suitable for' filters, and technical drawings, so you can quickly find the right part yourself.

Yes, in addition to scooter and moped parts, we also carry bicycle parts. Our assortment numbers over 100.000 items , both original and aftermarket — from wear parts to more model-specific parts. The most requested parts are in stock; we source less common parts through our supplier network, with the expected delivery time listed on the product page. Browse through the categories or use the search bar to see what is available for your vehicle.

Because you can quickly find the right part yourself here and order it immediately. Using the search bar, filters, the 'Suitable for' selection, or technical drawings, you choose exactly what fits your scooter — original or a more affordable aftermarket alternative, side by side. Thousands of our items are in stock and can be shipped the same day if ordered on a working day before 12:00 PM. And if a part doesn't fit after all, simply return it within 28 days.

There are multiple paths to the right part — choose what is most convenient for you:

• Search bar (at the top) — type the part along with your make or model, for example Piaggio Zip V-belt, or search directly by type or article number.
• Categories + filters — browse through a category and filter by brand, model, size, and more.
• Suitable for — choose your make and model, then you will only see parts that fit your vehicle.
• Technical drawings (exploded views) — see on the drawing find the exact location of a part for your model and click through to the correct article.

The search bar is often the fastest; for 'what exactly is here?', the technical drawings are ideal.

The search bar at the top is often the fastest route. Two handy ways:

• Search for the part + your vehicle, for example Vespa Primavera brake pads of Tomos air filter.
• Search for the code that is already on your old part. Many parts bear their own type. On a candle for example, there is a code on the side (such as NGK BR8ES of BPR7HS) — you just type that in and you immediately see the right one. That also works for tires (the size code on the side), lights, and bearings.

That way, you don't have to know which category something falls into first.

You can perform the most reliable checks yourself in a few clicks:

• Choose your vehicle via Suitable for (make and model) — then you filter the catalog for what fits.
• Or view the technical drawing of your model: there you can see the part in place, with the correct item attached to it. Handy to make sure you pick the right variant.

If in doubt, keep your make, model, year of manufacture, and possibly your frame number or license plate number at hand — with these, you will almost always be able to find it using the filters.

Original parts come from the manufacturer of your scooter or moped (OEM). Aftermarket parts are from a different, often specialized brand and are usually more affordable, although the quality can be fine. For many parts, you will find both, so you can choose for yourself: original for guaranteed fit, or aftermarket to save money. You can see the brand and specifications on the product page, so you can make an informed choice.

Try a different approach first: search by type or article number instead of a description, select your vehicle via 'Suitable for' , or look up your part using your model's technical drawing — sometimes there is a variant listed there that you wouldn't find so easily using a search term. Still having trouble? We work with a network of suppliers, so we can often still source even less common parts. Provide us with your make, type, and year of manufacture, and we will look into it for you.

Yes, for common brands like Piaggio and Vespa, we have a wide range, both original and aftermarket. The quickest way to see what fits is by selecting your model via 'Suitable for' or by searching for the part + your model in the search bar (for example, 'variator rollers Piaggio Zip' ). For many models, a technical drawing is also available showing the part in its place.

Certainly. We stock parts for many brands of mopeds and scooters, including Tomos, Kymco, and Peugeot. Select your brand and model via 'Suitable for' , use the search bar, or view the technical drawings for your model. This way, you can quickly find the right part without having to guess the fit.

To find the right parts, it helps to know your vehicle precisely. The VIN is stamped onto the frame — often near the steering head (under the handlebars), under the seat, or near the engine block — and on your registration certificate. You can also find the engine displacement (for example, 50cc or 125cc) and the year of manufacture on the registration certificate or the type plate. With the make, model, year of manufacture, and cc, you can quickly find the parts that actually fit via 'Suitable for' and the technical drawings.

Certainly. Many Chinese scooters share the same engine block — the well-known GY6 (139QMB for 50cc, 152QMI/157QMJ for 125/150cc) — meaning many wear and drive parts are interchangeable , regardless of the brand on the fairing. Think of V-belts, variator rollers, brake pads, spark plugs, and air filters. Please note: fairing, bodywork, and model-specific parts are NOT — you select those based on your exact make/model. Search for your model via 'Suitable for' , or type 'GY6 V-belt' or your part + 'GY6' in the search bar.

Want to know more? Read our comprehensive advice: China scooter (GY6) parts.

Yes, we also stock parts for classic mopeds and restoration projects — Puch, Zündapp, Kreidler, and more. Select your make and model via 'Suitable for' , or view the technical drawings for your model: during a restoration, it is especially helpful to see on the drawing which part belongs where. If a specific part is not listed, we can often still help look it up via our supplier network.

A technical drawing — also known as an exploded view or parts diagram — is a disassembled drawing of a component or assembly of your scooter, on which each individual part is numbered. This allows you to see at a glance how, for example, a variator, brake caliper, or cylinder is constructed and where each part is located. Each number on the drawing corresponds to the appropriate item from our webshop, which you can add directly to your shopping cart. Ideal if you know what is broken, but not exactly what the part is called.

Go to technical drawings and click through: make → model → version → drawing . The drawing contains numbered parts; click on a number (or on the corresponding line in the list next to it) and you will jump to the correct item, with price and stock. If you are not sure which part you need, this is often the clearest way — you simply recognize it by its position on the drawing.

We are continuously expanding the drawings. For many common brands — think Piaggio, Vespa, Peugeot, Tomos, Kymco, Puch, Zündapp, Kreidler, and various Chinese scooters (GY6) — exploded views are available, containing the individual models and versions. Please check the drawings page to see if your model is listed. If not, you can simply find the part via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Each number (the 'position') corresponds to one part on the drawing. You will find that same number in the parts list next to the drawing, along with the name, price, and stock of the corresponding item. A single position can sometimes have multiple versions (for example, different sizes or years of manufacture); these are then listed neatly below each other so that you choose the correct variant.

Vario rollers help determine when you 'shift up' your variomatic, and you control their weight (in grams) with them:

• Heavier rollers — shift up sooner: smoother, slightly higher top speed, lower RPM.
• Lighter rollers — let the engine rev higher: quicker acceleration, sometimes a slightly lower top speed.

Start with the standard weight of your model (which is matched to your engine) and deviate from that by at most a few grams to 'tune'. You can find the correct variator roller sets and separate variator parts via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Want to know more? Read our comprehensive advice: Choosing Variorollers.

A V-belt has a fixed size (length × width), which is usually printed on the belt itself. Copy that code, or select your model via 'Suitable for' — then you will immediately see the matching one. It is preferable to replace a stretched or frayed belt together with the variator pulleys, as they wear out as a set. You can find all V-belts together here.

A cylinder kit is a set consisting of a cylinder and piston; with a bore-up, you increase the cylinder capacity (for example, 50 → 70cc) for more power. For a good result, you match the entire system: cylinder, exhaust , carburetor, ignition, and variator. Let's be honest: riding a tuned-up bike on public roads is not allowed — on private property or a track , of course, it is. View the cylinders , sports exhausts , and the full tuning range ; select your model via 'Suitable for' to see what fits.

It concerns the material of the brake lining:

• Organic — softer, quieter, and gentle on the disc; fine for normal use, but less heat-resistant during heavy/sporty braking.
• Sintered (metal) — heat-resistant, strong bite, and long lifespan; ideal for sporty or heavy loads, but can be a bit noisier.

For most scooters, organic is perfectly adequate. You select the correct brake pads (and brake discs if necessary ) via 'Suitable for' or your model name.

Preferably combine multiple locks — thieves avoid the hassle:

• Disc brake lock — compact, locks the wheel; don't forget it before driving off.
• U-lock or chain lock — secure it to a fixed point so that it cannot be lifted.
• ART quality mark — often a requirement of your insurance; pay attention to this when purchasing.

View all locks & security and filter by your vehicle on the left.

You search for your part — via the search bar, category filters, 'Suitable for' , or a technical drawing — add it to your shopping cart, and check out online. Everything is shipped; store visits or pickup are not possible. Stock items ordered before 12:00 PM can often be shipped the same business day; for other items, you can see the processing time on the product page.

Certainly. Our webshop is open to everyone, and for workshops and professionals, we have a business arrangement : a business account , tiered or volume discounts for larger or regular purchases, a professional VAT invoice in your company name, and a dedicated contact person . Interested? Contact us with your company details, and we will set up the business account for you.

Absolutely. If you really can't figure it out using the search bar, filters, 'Suitable for', or technical drawings, or if you have doubts about the fit of a specific part, we are happy to help — we are mechanics ourselves. Please provide your make, model, year of manufacture, and optionally your frame number or license plate via the contact page , and we will help you find the right part. You will, of course, handle the installation yourself.

For the Netherlands, you can expect an estimated delivery time of 2-3 working days after your package has been shipped. Processing time is added to this; this varies per item and is listed on the product page. Many stock items ordered on a working day before 12:00 PM can be shipped the same day . Your package will be shipped with track & trace, and you will receive the tracking number by email.

The estimated delivery time after dispatch varies by country: Belgium 1-2 , Germany 2-4 , and the other EU countries 3-6 working days . In addition to this, there is the processing time, which varies per item and is stated on the product page. International orders are also shipped with track & trace. We deliver throughout the EU; more details can be found on the shipping page.

Shipping costs depend on the country and your order, and are shown in the final step before payment. We offer free shipping to the Netherlands, Belgium, and Germany for orders over €75 . For other EU countries, you pay the shipping costs shown at checkout. You can find more information about this on the shipping page.

For many items, yes. Thousands of our parts are in stock , and—ordered on a working day before 12:00 PM—they can be shipped the same day. You can see on the product page itself whether a specific item is in stock and what the processing time is. We source less common parts through our supplier network; in that case, too, the expected delivery time is listed with the product.

Every order leaves our premises with track & trace. As soon as your package is on its way, you will receive the tracking number by email so you can track the shipment. Still haven't seen anything after a few days? Please check your spam folder as well.

No, we ship exclusively within the European Union . As a result, you never have to deal with import duties, customs fees, or clearance : within the EU, there is free movement of goods and VAT is already included in the price. We do not offer delivery outside the EU.

That is unfortunate. Please report it to us within 2 working days of receipt and include photos of the damage, so we can resolve it together. Our contact details can be found on the contact page.

You can pay securely with iDEAL , credit card (Visa & Mastercard), PayPal , Bancontact , KBC/CBC , Belfius , and eps . You can pay in installments or later with Klarna (later or in 3 parts) and in3 (in 3 installments, 0% interest). The options you see may vary by country and order amount. The complete overview can be found on the payment page.

Yes. Your payment is processed encrypted via our payment partner Mollie , and we never store your card or bank details ourselves. You complete the payment in the secure environment of the method you choose, such as your own banking app for iDEAL. More information can be found on the payment page.

Yes. With Klarna , you pay later or spread the amount over 3 parts; with in3 , you pay in 3 installments with 0% interest. Simply select the option at checkout.

No, at Wheelerworks you pay no extra costs for Klarna or in3 — you pay the amount of your order. However, the specific terms and conditions of Klarna and in3 themselves apply (for example, regarding late payment); you will see these during checkout before confirming.

Certainly. We deliver throughout the EU, and at checkout you will see the methods available in your country — such as iDEAL (NL), Bancontact, KBC/CBC and Belfius (BE), eps (AT), plus PayPal, credit card, and installment payments via Klarna or in3. Which options appear may vary by country.

As soon as your payment is received, we will prepare your order; the processing time varies by item and is stated on the product page. Many stock items ordered before 12:00 PM can be shipped the same working day. You will receive a tracking number by email as soon as your package is on its way.

You have 28 days to return your order. If a part does not fit, you can simply return it. You register the return yourself via register return and then send the part back to us.

You can register a return yourself via register return . If you are logged in, select the correct order from your overview; if you are a guest, enter your order number and email address. Tick the items you are returning, choose a reason, and optionally add a comment. You will receive a confirmation by email, and we will contact you regarding the processing.

If you return an item because it does not fit or because you have decided against it, the return costs are at your own expense and you must choose your own carrier (send with track & trace so you have proof of shipment). If we have made a mistake — delivered an incorrect or damaged part — we will pay for the return shipment . Please report this within 2 working days with photos via the contact page.

If the delivered item does not match your order, please report this via the contact page so we can investigate immediately (it is our fault). If the part does not fit your vehicle, return it within 28 days via register return . You can avoid a mistake next time with the 'Suitable for' selection or the technical drawing of your model.

Exchanging with us takes two steps: you register the part to be returned via 'Register return' and you reorder the desired part on the site. This way, you receive the correct item as quickly as possible. Not sure which size or variant you need? Check via 'Suitable for' or the technical drawing of your model.

Please return the part preferably complete, unused, and in good condition , if possible in the original packaging, so that we can resell it. Pack it securely to prevent damage during transit. Please register the return first via register return.

In short: a 2-stroke runs on 2T oil that burns along with the fuel — either as mixed lubrication (oil with the gasoline), or automatically via a small oil pump from a separate tank, depending on your model. A 4-stroke has engine oil in the crankcase that you change periodically, just like in a car.

You can find the correct 2T oil, engine oil, or a new oil filter via 'Suitable for' or the search bar. For the type and quantity, refer to your model's instruction manual.

Go directly to engine oil and oil filters.

The spark plug is a real wear part. Difficulty starting, irregular idling, loss of power, or increased fuel consumption often point to a worn or fouled spark plug — and it is one of the cheapest parts to replace. Fun fact: the color of the spark plug tip reveals a lot — light brown is healthy, black and sooty indicates running too rich, and chalk white indicates running too lean.

Which spark plug fits depends on the make, model, and engine. The quickest way is to type the code found on your current spark plug (such as NGK BR8ES ) into the search bar, or select your vehicle via 'Suitable for'.

You can find all spark plugs together here — filter on the left for your vehicle.

The V-belt and variator rollers are wear parts of the variomatic and are part of the normal maintenance of an automatic scooter. You will notice a stretched or frayed belt and flattened rollers by less smooth acceleration, lower top speed, or an unstable transmission. Preferably replace them as a set , as they wear out together. The exact intervals vary by model — check the workshop manual for this. You can find the correct set via 'Suitable for' , the search bar, or the technical drawing of your model.

Go directly to V-belts and variator pulley sets , filter by your vehicle.

Brake pads are safety wear parts, so don't let them wear out too far. Watch out for a longer braking distance, squeaking or scraping, a spongy braking feel, or visibly thin brake linings. If in doubt, replacement is the safe choice; check the disc or drum at the same time. The correct brake pads or shoes depend on the make, model, and brake type (disc or drum) — select your vehicle via 'Suitable for' or view the technical drawing of the brake system.

Go directly to brake pads and brake discs — filter your vehicle on the left.

The tire size is listed as a code on the side of your current tire (for example, 120/70-12 ); simply type this into the search bar. You can find the tire pressure in the owner's manual or on a sticker on the frame, and it can differ between the front and rear. We deliberately do not mention a fixed pressure here, as this depends on the model. Fun fact: the tire also has a DOT code indicating the production week and year — rubber ages, so a tire that has been sitting for years can become hard, even with sufficient tread.

Go directly to tires — filter on the left by your vehicle.

The exact interval is stated in the workshop or instruction manual for your model — that is the leading source of information. As a guideline:

• 4-stroke: change the engine oil periodically (for many small scooters around 3.000 km or annually) and replace the oil filter.
• 2-stroke: the engine oil burns along with it, so you don't need to change that — do top up the 2T oil tank and the transmission/crankcase oil refresh periodically.
• Wearing parts: keep an eye on the V-belt and variator rollers, spark plug, air filter, and brake pads, and replace them on time.

You can find the right oil, filters, and wear parts for your model via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Convenient: many brands have a ready-made maintenance kit with the wear parts in one package.

A dirty air filter lets less air through, causing the mixture to become too rich: less power, higher fuel consumption, and sometimes black smoke. Check it at every service. You can wash out a foam filter and lightly recoat it with filter oil; a paper filter must be replaced. If you frequently drive through dust or sand, do this more often. You can find the correct air filter via 'Suitable for' , the search bar, or the technical drawing of your model.

Due for replacement? All air filters are grouped together here.

Only for hydraulic disc brakes : these use brake fluid (often DOT 4 ). Brake fluid attracts moisture, causing the boiling point to drop and the brake to feel 'spongy' — therefore, replace it periodically (a common guideline is every ~2 years). Drum brakes and mechanical brakes use a cable and do not use brake fluid. You can find the correct brake fluid, brake pads, or brake cables via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Go directly to the brake fluid.

A few steps and you'll be driving again in no time in the spring:

• Fuel — fill the tank with a splash of fuel stabilizer (to prevent resin buildup), or drain the carburetor.
• Battery — on or off the trickle charger, fully charged and stored in a frost-free place. A dead battery can freeze.
• Oil — for a 4-stroke, fresh engine oil just before the winter break.
• Tires & storage — maintain tire pressure, store in a dry and frost-free place, and cover to protect against dust and moisture.

You can find a stabilizer, fresh oil, a battery charger, or a new battery via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Handy for the winter break: maintenance supplies (stabilizer), fresh engine oil , and a trickle charger.

Scooters have a number of parts that simply need to be replaced periodically. The most requested, with a direct link (filter links by your vehicle):

• V-belts en vario roll (the variomatic) — for smooth acceleration and your top speed.
• spark plugs — cheap and crucial for a smooth start.
• brake pads — wear part.
• air filters — for the right air-fuel mixture.
• tires — by profile and age.
• batteries and lighting — for the electrics.

Or grab a ready-made maintenance kit all at once.

Leaving a bolt too loose causes vibrations and loosening; overtightening pulls it out or damages the thread. The guideline values ​​below apply to standard steel bolts (strength class 8.8), clean and lightly oiled. Flange bolts and nuts have a wider bearing surface and can generally be tightened slightly more:

Please note: these are general guidelines. For critical bolts — cylinder head, wheel axle, brake caliper, flywheel, variator, or clutch nut — the specific value from your model's workshop manual always applies (often with a fixed tightening sequence and a torque wrench). Oiled or greased threads? Then calculate about 10-15% lower.

A basic maintenance service that you can easily do yourself, point by point:

• Spark plug — check or replace (check the color of the tip).
• Air filter — clean or replace.
• Oil — for a 4-stroke, change the engine oil + oil filter; for a 2-stroke, the crankcase/transmission oil.
• V-belt and variator rollers — check for wear.
• Remmen — check brake pads/brake shoes and (for disc brakes) brake fluid.
• Tires — profile, age and tension.
• Bolts — check critical fasteners to the correct torque.

Saves searching: many brands offer a ready-made maintenance kit with wear parts in a single package. You can find individual parts via 'Suitable for' , the search bar, or the technical drawings.

Yes, a 4-stroke has valve clearance that changes over time; a 2-stroke has no valves. Signs of incorrect clearance: a ticking sound at the top of the engine (too much clearance) or difficulty starting and loss of power (too little clearance). The correct clearance and interval are listed in your model's workshop manual — measure cold with a feeler gauge and adjust using the adjusting screw or a valve shim . If in doubt, have it measured: too little clearance will eventually cost you a valve. You can find valve cover gaskets and shims via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Starting up gently after months of inactivity prevents damage:

• Fuel — old gasoline is often 'resinated'; fill up with fresh fuel and check if the carburetor is not clogged.
• Battery — charge or replace; after the winter it is often empty.
• Tires & oil level — check voltage, oil level (4-stroke).
• Remmen — just test if they grip well before you drive off.
• Cold start — use the choke and let it warm up slowly.

Need it? You can find fresh engine oil , a battery charger or a new battery , and maintenance products via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Carefully review the most common causes:

• Gasoline — enough in the tank, and is the fuel tap open?
• Emergency stop & contact — is the kill switch set correctly and is the ignition on?
• Safety switches — many scooters only start with the default up expats must register with the local municipality and obtain a brake lever squeezed.
• Battery — with electric start: does the starter motor turn smoothly? If not, the battery is often dead. You can usually still start it with the kickstart.
• Spark plug — Is it still sparking, or is it wet/waterlogged or worn out?
• Fuse — a blown fuse shuts down the entire electrical system.

After a long period of inactivity, hardened gasoline in the carburetor is a common culprit. You can find a new spark plug, fuse, or battery via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Need to replace quickly? spark plugs , fuses , and batteries.

Want to know more? Read our comprehensive advice: Scooter won't start? Here's how to fix it yourself.

When acceleration is poor or speed is insufficient, the drivetrain and wear parts are the first suspects: a stretched or worn V-belt , worn variator rollers , a worn clutch, or, on the engine side, a fouled spark plug, dirty air filter, or clogged exhaust. Often, it is a combination of normal wear and tear.

If you want to see how the variomatic is constructed and which part you need, view the technical drawing of your model. You can also find the V-belt, variator rollers, and clutch parts via 'Suitable for'.

Go directly to variator rollers and variator parts.

The color is a useful diagnosis:

• Blue/gray smoke = oil is being burned along with it. A little is normal for a 2-stroke; for a 4-stroke or if there is an excessive amount, it indicates wear (piston rings, valve guides) or too much oil.
• White smoke = usually water vapor/condensation during a cold start, which disappears when the engine is warm. If it remains white and smells sweet in a liquid-cooled engine, coolant may be burning along with it.
• Black smoke = overly rich mixture: think of a dirty air filter, a stuck choke, or a poorly adjusted carburetor.

You can find parts to fix it — air filter, spark plug, gaskets, piston set — via 'Suitable for' or the technical drawing of your engine block.

For an overhaul: piston rings and cylinders.

Often it does. Gasoline that has been sitting idle for a long time (especially with ethanol in E10) resinifies and clogs the small jets in the carburetor. Typical signs include difficulty starting, reluctance to idle, hesitation throttle response, or stalling when accelerating. Cleaning or overhauling the carburetor with a rebuild kit (jets, needle, gaskets, float needle) usually solves this. You can find these kits and spare parts via 'Suitable for' , the search bar, or the carburetor's technical drawing . Want to prevent this? Store the scooter with a full tank + fuel stabilizer, or drain the carburetor.

Go directly to carburetor parts and gasket sets.

That depends on the damage. Most scooter tires are tubeless (without an inner tube); a hole in the tread can often be sealed with a repair plug . If the damage is in the sidewall , the tire is worn or old, or keeps deflating, then replacement is safer. Mopeds with spoked wheels often still have an inner tube , which you then patch or replace. You can find the correct tire (pay attention to the size code on the side, for example 120/70-12 ), inner tube, or repair kit via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Need a new tire? Check out the outer tires and inner tubes.

It is usually the fuel or ignition. Check:

• Fuel supply — a clogged fuel filter, a kinked or porous fuel hose, or a clogged tank vent cause the engine to 'starve'.
• Ignition — a failing spark plug, ignition coil, or CDI causes failure specifically under load.
• Overheating — with a liquid-cooled engine, too little coolant can cause it to stall.

Quick to replace: fuel filters , fuel hoses , spark plugs , ignition coils and CDIs.

Work from simple to complex:

• Lamp — has the bulb/LED burned out? Often the cause.
• Fuse — a blown fuse shuts down an entire circuit.
• Contact & mass — a loose plug or a poor ground connection causes flickering or dead lights.

Go directly to bulbs , headlights , turn signals , fuses , or the entire lighting category — filter on the left by your vehicle.

Depends on the cooling type:

• Liquid-cooled — check it coolant level and look for leaks; a defective water pump, thermostat, or cooling fan can also be the cause.
• Air cooled — keep the cooling fins and fan cover clean, and ensure the correct (2T) oil and adjustment; running too lean makes it hot.

Do not continue driving if overheating occurs — that will cost you an engine. You can find coolant and radiators via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Three main suspects:

• The battery itself — an old or sulfated battery no longer holds a charge.
• The charging system — charges the alternator/stator via the voltage regulator (rectifier) Is the battery still working? A defective regulator causes the battery to drain or, conversely, overcharge.
• Standby power — an alarm or incorrectly connected accessory drains it at night.

Measure the battery voltage with the engine off and running. Go directly to batteries , voltage regulators , and battery chargers.

First find out where it comes from:

• Oil — often a worn gasket or oil seal (crankcase, cylinder head, clutch cover).
• Gasoline — usually a porous fuel hose, a leaking fuel tap, or an overflowing carburetor (float needle).

A petrol leak is a fire hazard — do not drive with it until it is repaired. You can find gasket sets , fuel hoses , and carburetor parts via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

Most scooters have a 12V battery (often maintenance-free, AGM). Here are a few tips to keep it running well for years:

• Don't leave it empty. A battery slowly discharges itself, especially if the scooter is left standing still during the winter. A dead lead-acid battery 'sulfates' and breaks down.
• Use a trickle charger in winter (maintenance charger) or top up the battery monthly. A full battery does not freeze; an empty one does.
• Short trips don't really recharge. The starter, lights, and turn signals actually consume power — drive a bit longer occasionally or recharge.
• Store it fully loaded and frost-free. In case of prolonged inactivity; disconnect the negative terminal if necessary.

A maintenance-free (AGM/gel) battery does not need to be topped up; with a classic wet battery , you check the fluid level and only top up with distilled water.

A trickle charger (maintenance charger) keeps your battery charged during the winter.

Rule of thumb for a 12V lead-acid battery (wet or AGM): charge at approximately 1/10 of its capacity . So, charge a 5 Ah battery at around 0,5 A. Preferably use a modern (smart) charger that switches off automatically and is suitable for AGM/gel batteries — a heavy-duty fast or car battery charger is too bulky for a small scooter battery. Charge a lithium battery (electric scooter) exclusively with a charger specifically designed for lithium.

When replacing, pay attention to four things: the voltage (usually 12V, sometimes 6V on older mopeds), the capacity (Ah), the positive/negative terminals , and the dimensions . The easiest way: type the model code of your current battery (for example, YTX4L-BS or YTX7A-BS ) into the search bar, or select your vehicle via 'Suitable for' . Note: some new batteries are supplied dry with an acid pack — you must fill and charge this first before installing it.

Ready to shop right away? View all batteries and filter by your brand and model on the left.

We recommend E5 as standard (for example Euro 98/Super Plus), unless your scooter manufacturer explicitly recommends E10 . Euro 95 at the pump is nowadays E10 (up to 10% ethanol); the more expensive 98 is usually E5 (up to 5%). Technically, new injection models can generally run fine on E10, but ethanol attracts moisture and can damage older fuel hoses, seals, and gaskets — and is less suitable for 2-stroke mixed lubrication. That is why we prefer E5, especially for older, classic, and 2-stroke scooters, and for a scooter that is often left idle. You can find fuel hoses, gaskets, or a carburetor rebuild kit via the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

If your 2-stroke has a separate oil pump with a small oil tank , you do not need to mix — you simply top up the 2T oil tank. If you *do* need to mix it yourself (pre-mix lubrication), 1:50 (2%) is a common ratio for modern 2T oil; some older or more heavily loaded engines require 1:40 or 1:25. The specifications in your owner's manual are the guiding principle — too little oil causes wear, too much causes smoke and fouling. You can find good 2T oil using the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

Gasoline has a limited shelf life: in a well-sealed jerrycan usually about 3-6 months , but often shorter in the tank of a stationary scooter. Ethanol (in E10) attracts moisture and the light, flammable components evaporate, causing the gasoline to 'resin' and the carburetor to clog — the main reason a scooter starts poorly after the winter. If you are storing it for a longer period: fill the tank (less condensation), add a fuel stabilizer , or drain the carburetor. If you are unsure about old gasoline, fill up with fresh fuel.

That code is the viscosity (how 'thick' the oil is) according to the SAE standard. For 10W-40 :

• 10W — the cold property (the 'W' for winter): the lower the value, the better the oil flows through when cold.
• 40 — the viscosity at operating temperature: the higher, the 'thicker' the hot oil.

Many scooters run on 10W-40 or 5W-40 . Adhere to the viscosity as well as the standard prescribed by the manufacturer (for example, a JASO designation for 4-stroke) — this can be found in your owner's manual. You can find the correct motor oil using the search bar or 'Suitable for'.

A 2-stroke makes its power stroke with every revolution: light, punchy, and recognizable by the higher-pitched, 'tjengende' sound and sometimes a whiff of blue smoke (the 2T oil burns along with it). A 4-stroke takes two revolutions, runs more smoothly and economically, and has separate engine oil that you change. Rule of thumb among mechanics: a 2-stroke has fewer parts and is simple to maintain, while a 4-stroke is cleaner and more economical. Which one you have determines which oil and which parts you need.

On a cold start, the mixture is richer (the choke/enricher adds extra fuel) and the oil is still cold and viscous. Letting it warm up gently for a moment and not giving full throttle for the first few minutes gives the lubrication, piston, and cylinder time to reach operating temperature and alignment. That reduces wear—especially on a 2-stroke. Full throttle on an ice-cold engine is the fastest way to unnecessary wear.

Most automatic scooters have a variomatic — a continuously variable transmission (CVT). Instead of fixed gears, there are two pulleys with a V-belt running between them. At higher revs, the variator rollers push the front pulley closed, causing the belt to move out and the gear ratio to change steplessly — as a result, the engine maintains a fairly constant RPM while you accelerate. That is precisely why the V-belt and variator rollers are so crucial for your acceleration and top speed, and are part of routine maintenance. If you want to see how it works, take a look at the technical drawing of the variomatic.

In short, the difference lies in the permitted speed and the license plate. A light moped/light moped has a speed limit of 25 km/h and has a blue license plate ; a light moped/light moped has a speed limit of 45 km/h and has a yellow plate . Technically, the difference lies mainly in the speed limiter and tuning (for example, variator rollers and drivetrain). Legal requirements regarding the driving license and helmet may change — please check the official source (Government of the Netherlands/RDW) for this. You can find parts for your model via 'Suitable for' or the search bar.

The code on an NGK spark plug describes the spark plug exactly. Roughly, based on BR8ES :

Important: the heat rating in particular must be correct — a spark plug that is too 'hot' or too 'cold' will cause problems. Therefore, copy the code from your current spark plug, or select your vehicle via 'Suitable for'. You can find all spark plugs together here.

It concerns the material of the cylinder, with implications for behavior and maintenance:

• Cast iron — solid and forgiving, somewhat heavier, and retains heat for a long time. Many standard and classic blocks are cast iron.
• Aluminium (with a Nikasil or similar coating in the barrel) — lighter, cools better, and often allows for more power; you see it a lot on sport/racing cylinders.

Good to know: an aluminium cylinder expands more when heated , so letting it warm up properly before giving full throttle is especially important here — giving full throttle when cold actually causes faster wear or seizing in aluminium. You can find cylinders , pistons, and gaskets via 'Suitable for'.

The difference lies in how the engine dissipates its heat:

• Air cooled — cools via cooling fins and airflow (sometimes a fan). Simple and low-maintenance: no coolant, no radiator.
• Liquid-cooled (water-cooled) — cools with coolant through a radiator, just like a car. Keeps the temperature more stable (nice under higher load or for sporty driving), but does require maintenance: keeping the coolant topped up and replacing it periodically.

If you have a liquid-cooled engine, you can find coolant , radiators , and hoses via 'Suitable for' or the search bar. If you see persistent white, sweetish smoke, check if coolant is burning along with it.

Yes, we stock plenty of tuning and sport parts — think sport cylinders, sport exhausts, variator rollers, and modified drivetrains. Let's be honest: tuning or de-restricting for use on public roads is not permitted (your scooter must comply with its speed class and type approval). On private property, the track, or for restoration and sport, of course, the possibilities are endless; for some products, the application is explicitly stated. Select your model via 'Suitable for' to see matching sport and tuning parts.

That is possible, but you arrange that with the official authorities — not with us. For a moped or scooter imported from abroad, you apply for a license plate in the Netherlands at the RDW (often involving an inspection or identification); for export , you deregister the vehicle via the RDW. We help you with the parts associated with such a project — lighting, mirrors, cables, or repair parts. Search by make and model via 'Suitable for' or the search bar. The current registration and inspection regulations can be found at the RDW.

Two things that often get mixed up:

• APK — in the Netherlands, mopeds and scooters have no periodic vehicle inspection requirementProper maintenance naturally remains your own responsibility for safety.
• Insurance - An Third-party liability insurance is mandatory. as soon as your vehicle has a license plate, even when it is stationary. Driving without one is punishable.

You can find the current regulations (registration, driving license, helmet) at the Dutch Government/RDW. We provide the parts to keep your scooter safe and in good condition.

The fastest way is via WhatsApp (+31 6 2955 8532) or by email at [email protected] . Please include your order number so we can check immediately. We do not have a telephone helpdesk: a message with a photo or order number helps us faster than a call.

On business days, we usually respond within a few hours and no later than the next business day. On weekends, we monitor the messages but do not always reply on the same day.

Co-funding is not required. Wheelerworks This is a webshop without a physical address or pick-up counter; everything is shipped. If you want fast delivery, choose a pick-up point near you during checkout.

The expected shipping date is stated in your confirmation email. You can view the current status in My Account : "In preparation" means that we are collecting and packing your order; as soon as the package is scanned by the carrier, you will receive an email with the track & trace number.